Country report – La Samanna

By Anna Head

A gem in the Orient-Express group portfolio, La Samanna is a hidden jewel in the French West Indies. St Maarten is an island under the flags of both France and Holland and is a delightful mix of both cultures. Just 15 minutes from the French capital, Maigrot, La Samanna is located on Baie Longue, an unspoilt mile of glorious white sand which seems to stretch on forever with no other hotel in sight.

The story of how the island came to be split between the two governments is a delightful one. Already in situ they decided it was time to divvy up the land and in 1648 a representative from each country was told to walk round the island in different directions until they met one another and boundary lines would be drawn up. The quick-witted Frenchman replaced the Dutchman’s bottle of water with gin. The Frenchman had 20 square miles to the Dutchman’s 16.

La Samanna takes luxury and privacy to new levels. Without the need to be über-trendy, it has created a sanctuary of tranquillity and retained its quiet individuality and true island indulgence. It oozes with French chic. But where so many island hotels fall foul of ostentation, there isn’t even a hint of it here. It is above all that – and with a guest list looking like something out of Who’s Who, its excellent reputation is the result of enthusiastic word-of-mouth.

Opened in 1973, the hotel has been built into the hillside and has 81 guest rooms, suites and villas – all with a sensational ocean view. The traditional guestrooms are anything but standard. Furnished with flair in Caribbean wicker, bamboo and hard wood, the rooms are all on the large side with wonderful bathrooms individually designed and decorated with handmade Mexican tiles. The temptation is to stay put and cocoon yourself away, but the allure of the beach is too great, where they have imaginatively created wonderful wooden floor Cabanas. There are six for hire, which don’t come cheap but are a true treat at £100 plus a day. They are equipped with sumptuous daybeds, personal iPods, cooled champagne and a Cabana attendant.

They have also just completed the Fitness Pavilion with all the latest aerobic and weight training equipment and an onsite qualified trainer. There are two good sized pools to choose from, both with wonderful views out to sea. Tennis courts, windsurfing, diving, and a gin palace of a hotel motorboat to explore the other islands, completes the picture.

St Maarten offers the best of all worlds and is a wonderful melting pot of cultures: the nightlife and casinos in the Dutch part of the island and the rather more sedate and elegant French boutiques and bistros in the French part.

The island is still relatively unknown in the UK, thankfully with no charter flights as yet and long may it remain so. There are direct flights from both Paris and Amsterdam or you can island hop in just 30 minutes from Antigua.

However beautiful or grand a hotel is, without the quality of the staff it is a miserable place to stay. Under the watchful eye of the charming manager Duncan Hogarth, all the staff are superb. Nothing was too much trouble.The majority of flights stop here en route to the BVI and I thoroughly recommend you stop off here – preferably on the way out and the return!

For reservations: www.orient-express.com or www.lasamanna.com. Contact: UK 0207 921 4067, or direct: + 590 590 876 400